söndag 30 oktober 2022

Dreadtober bouns,Dominus arms WIP 2

 As I guessed I would not be able to finish the bonus completely, but at least I got the arm weapons for my Dominus knight built, which was my real hope with this, and as a bonus for the bonus I slapped on the base greens. 

I did some minor modifications to my original idea with the rebuild and made the barrel cowlings a bit smaller as well as the reinforcements of the lower shield. Apart from that it has mostly been a question about closing gaps and making things fit together. Over all it is perhaps not the cleanest build but at lest it got done and I can move on to other things.

One thing I noticed when trying on the arms on the already finished body was that I have sculped some cables around the arm sockets that prevented me from mounting the arms, so I hade to take the scalpel and trim the cables down, not the most pleasant thing to do to a already painted model but it needed doing.

Now I just need to paint these and I can call the knight done.

måndag 24 oktober 2022

Dreadtober bonus, Dominus arms WIP 1

After finishing my Dreadtober pledge I decided that I would try to finish the arms for my Dominus knight. This has been something that I have been working on for some time but never really gotten around to doing properly. In my first iteration I hade the idea of using the mauler fiend housings as a base and sculpting on some skulle work. However, non of my Knights really have that aesthetics and it would only be the arms for the Dominus so it never really fit in. So I decided to start over and give the arms a more traditional look with a square housing and some front shields.

The housing and shields are made of plasticard, where the shields are made up of layers so that I can bend and shape them. Once I got the basic shape done I made some borders where I pressed in rivets with a sculpting tool, a new technique that I am trying to master. I am not really sure of the barrel cover as it feels like it is becoming to front heavy. I might need to add something over the rear to balance it. Once I am happy with all the pieces I will file them to the final shape and add green stuff to them. 

I am now pretty sure that I will not make it with these arms in the remaining October week as there are quite a few elements that need to cure over night but I will try to at least get them built and ready for paint even if the actual painting will have to wait. Well, that is my bonus project for this year...

söndag 16 oktober 2022

Dreadtober Thanatar done

This weekend I managed to finish of the base and mount the Thanatar in its final position. I did the base as an experiment for an idea that I have had for some time about what to do for my Warbringer Surtr. All in all I am quite happy with how it turned out, but I think I will have to be a bit careful with these large interactive bases in the future as it is easy that they become to dominant and that the display case might look very strange with to many of them.

The colour scheme for the base is kept simple with some elements reflecting the colours of the Thanatar, as the rusted metals. The walls where done in grey with bronze statues that where toned down with Verdigris. The top of the windows where dry brushed black to represent the burning of the building before it collapsed. The edges of the base is covered with gravel, but to ensure that I did not get any patches with the base black I painted these areas in a brown yellow before adding the gravel.

It was a fun project and I think I managed to pull it of to a standard that was worth waiting 7 years for. I think I have probably spent 15 hours or so painting this model. Hope you all enjoyed the process.

The rest of Dreadtober I will spend on trying to finish the arm weapons for my Dominus knight that has also been a multi year undertaking. I am however not sure I will manage to get them done as I just decided to restart part of them and that means a lot of building before I can start painting, hence I do not dare to pledge these to the challenge, but with some luck I might finish this model.

I also took a shot with my previous Dreadtober builds.

torsdag 13 oktober 2022

Dreadtober Thanatar WIP 4

This week I finished the base painting on the Thanatar. I have painted and chipped the arms and body as well as gotten it assembled. Now I need to go back over it and finish some of the details and cover any of the joints where the resin is visible due to some over enthusiastic masking. There are also some spots where the paint has rubbed of as I handled the pieces. That is one of the drawbacks of resin, it is hard to get the paint to stick. But all in all it is turning out pretty much as I expected. I think it will fit in nicely with the rest of my legio cybernetica.

One problem that I have with plasma weapons is how to paint the characteristic "plasma coils". Most people I see paint the package as glowing. I think this looks good and it is an opportunity to try OSL if one is inclined towards that. But it is in my mind not realistic, for two reasons, and that becomes a problem for me and my painting style. One is the obvious, you do not put a bright light source on your military vehicle as it will attract every enemy that has eyes. The other is that this is not how plasma coils work. I am assuming that what we see on the model is the electric coils that creates the magnetic filed that contain and guide the plasma. The coils would be metal to carry enough current to generate a stronge enough field to guide the plasma. The coils would also be packed so tight that you would probably not see much of the plasma. I have seen lose coils guide plasmas in deposition processes but those fields and plasma currents are not near enough to weapon grade. Any way, my compromise here is to paint a bright base and then drybrush some copper on top of the ridges/coils, showing that the plasma is in a coil and some light escaping through the spacings in the coil, but not enough to be to bright. One could off course argue that if the light escaping is bright enough a viewer would experience the whole package as glowing as the metal coils could just be drowned in the light of the plasma...

Now I just need to finish the base and I might actually be done ahead of time. If that happens I might try to finish my Dominus knight that is missing his arms.

söndag 9 oktober 2022

Dreadtober Thanatar WIP 3

This weekend I finished the green armour and started with the markings. I use masking tejp not only to mark lines etc but also to create areas where the paint have peeled of. This can be used on large areas or just as small infringements in otherwise hole areas. Once masked I drybrush on a bone white colour. Then I use bronze to paint in chevrons, checkers ets going all the way up onto the tejp. Then I fill in the appropriate areas with blue and drybrush each filed in three stages. Once dry I remove the tejp which then literally crates a border where there is an edge between the chevrons and the underlying green base.

I also decided to do some free hand bone workings on the "head" to tie it in with the rest of my mechanicum forces and titans. But since the head is much larger than on the other automata models I decided to add a proper face to the model, however it turned out to cartoonish in my opinion so I toned it down by removing the mouth and nose part, just keeping the "eyes".

In parallell to this I also started the base painting in the arms and plasma mortar. Here I am just following the same recipe as described in the previous past so I will not repeat the description.

Once I hade all the chevrons and checkers done I sponge chipped the model. I use black and dark brown for this as it creates more dynamic chipping with new and older damage (that has started to rust). This is followed by a gentle dry brush of bolt gun metal on the edges where the shipping marks are. Then I go over the model with an orange ink, adding an orange tone to areas that have rusted, i.e. around the sponge chipping and in corners and angels in the armour.

Once all this was done I assembled the legs, making sure that they fit to the anchoring holes in the base. It turned out that the ankel shields on the feet needed to come of and get re-glued to get the pose right.

That is about as far I got over the weekend. During the coming week I hope to get the arms and weapons done, at least up to the stage where I can start with the weathering process. I will also need to go back and paint in some details. Then I will have to start working on the base. 

Initially I thought that I would have a lot of time for this model but I am starting to think it might be a bit tight to get everything done to the proper level.

onsdag 5 oktober 2022

Dreadtober Thanatar WIP 2

After assembling the Thanatar and getting the pose sort of locked in I broke it apart into the subassemblies in which it was to be painted. I also took the opportunity to drill out the barrels of the plasma mortar and the mauler bolters so that the bottoms of the barrels are not as visible. Before spraying the parts I used maskin tejp on the surfaces where I will glue things together, just to make sure that the glue get a good contact with the resin later on.

Once base sprayed black I started the painting process. My previous mechanicum automata has been a solid green with just the pistons picked out in metal, but as this model is so much larger and has so much detail I needed to break it up a bit and use some different colours. For my titans and knights I have recently been doing this by painting the substructure in a pale green/yellow and then adding the dark green armour plates on top (giving them a negative look in low light) which I think go well together with their ghost name. But, since the other automata does not have "ghost" look I thought that I would try something that would not stick out as much compared to the other models. 

I have previously played around with heavily rusted metal for my Knight "Entropy" and for my fledgling Necron force. This gives them a brown/golden look and I think this could tie in nicely with the "dark green" as it has a very strong brown tone. So I decided to try making a rusted subframe with my usual green armour.

The way I paint the rusted metal is quite fast, the first step only took about an hour. This consists of base painting the parts black (over the spray as it does not take drybrushing well), den adding patches of brown and two tones of orange to the model. This is just slapped on and is very quick. Once dry I drybrush the model with cupper and three tones of white metal. This gives the model a rusted look and could probably be used for rank and file to some medium table top standard. But I could not leave it at that so I washed everting black and then I went in with a detailed brush and some watered down browns and oranges, applying this more carefully to the model in areas where rust would appear. The watered down colours will work as washes and go into recesses and into coroners etc without having to actually paint in all the details. Adding the second layer also give more depth the colours as well as a better blend and smoothness to the layers. Then it was a repeat of the drybrush. Sadly the photo of this stage is not very good as the now much brighter metals (two passes of drybrushing) cause some sort of problem with the camera ship and how it records the other colours.

Once the subframe was done it was on to the panels, and now I remembered how painful it is to paint Forgeworld models compared to the modern plastics. As the torso, legs etc are cast as singel pieces, I can not paint the armour separately as I normally do for my knights (or any other smaller parts which makes it very fiddley to get to all the parts and places). So I hope that I do not spill over onto the already painted parts with the green. After base painting the armour panels green they where washed with brown ink and drybrushed with three tones of green. After the drybrushing the parts are rinsed under a water tap at full pressure to wash away any lose paint dust. This prevents icing in my experience, which is a serious problem considering the many layers of drybrushing I use.

Once dry I will ink everything again and do another run of green drybrushing but that will be another day. Hopefully I will manage that tomorrow so that I will have the main body and legs done for the Friday summary of the first week. Second week will be painting chevrons etc onto the armour and chipping. I will also probably start the base work on the arms and weapons which will pretty much be the same as for the body, i.e. a rusted under structure and green armour. At some point I will also need to start the base, but that will probably be more toward the end of the month...

måndag 3 oktober 2022

Dreadtober Thanatar WIP1

It is time for Dreadtober again!!! 

This time I thought I would finally get my Thanatar siege-automata done. I have had this model for a long long time. It was ordered on my birthday in 2015 so it has been collecting dust for a little over 7 years now. It was one of those models that I instantly knew I wanted when I say it. But once I had it, it sort of became a holy relic that I did not want to touch until I knew exactly what I wanted to do with it. So time when by and I never really got the right idea. Then a coupple of weeks ago when I was browsing the internet for inspiration I came across a model that really got my attention. I do not remember if it was a Thanatar or a Domitar, but it was standing in a ruin and it was grabbing one of the walls with one arm while the other was held up, firing forward. And I thought to my self "That looks cool, I should do something similar". Well I had already been playing around with some basing ideas for my Warbringer titan, Surtr, with a very much similar idea, i.e. the titan standing in a ruin. Well this would be the perfect time to test this out on a smaller scale.

So I rummaged through the to do bin and found the model, still on the "sprues" in the plastic forge world bag. Of to the washing-up bath it went. After a day or so in hot water and two encounters with a toothbrush it was laid out to dry. The next day I started to cut the parts from the casting vents and cleaned up the most critical casting lines. Then I dry fitted the model with blue tack and tried to find a pose I liked. It was not easy as the model consists of a lot of small parts that make up the legs, arms and torso. Once I figured out what I could to with the model pose wise I started to look through the bits boxes to see if I could find something to build the base from.

I found parts of an old scenery set from which I could build a ruined corner as well as some tiles to make up a floor that fit snuggly onto the base of the model. I did however not like the look of the ruin just sitting directly on the base as it almost looked like to bases on top of each other as the sizes where so similar. So I decided to att some distance between the two and make it into sort of plint. I cut up some plastic sprues and glued the pieces to the base in two layers, matching the outline of the ruin. Then I cut up even more sprue into small parts that I glued down to cover the distance between the base and the ruin and act as rubble. I also added a few plasticard pipes to resemble plumbing. Finally I used some filler to fill out the gaps.

Once I go this done I once again dry fitted the model onto the base and marked the feet positions. Then I drilled a hole in the bottom of each foot and added a thin metal rod. Similar holes where then added to the base where the feet should go so that I can position the model correctly later on when it is all painted.

One other major thing to tackel was (and might still be) the ammo feed for the main gun. This is normally intended to go from the back of the model onto the arm when the arm is in a down ward position. I, however wanted it to be pointing forward, i.e. a 90 deg change. One can reshape the resin using heat, but changing something this much is tricky. I first I tried using a hair dryer, this is normally enough to straighten smaller warps etc, but it turned out that I could not get the resin flexible enough to get the arm into position. So I when to the big guns, boiling water. Now this is sort of dangerous as this will bring the resin above its plasticity point and it becomes very malleable, but it is also easy to break tings this way as it will not move in a controlled way. To make things easier I clued the two ammo belts together and added them to the arm so I could fix the arm in the arm socket and then run the slinky belt upp to the back. Since they were a bit to soft They had a tendency to hang in towards the boy while cooling. This cause some problems with the legs, so I might have to go back to this and see if I can fine adjust them with the hairdryer before starting to paint.

Well that is as far as I got in the first week end of the challenge.